A surprise invitation to Ruaha
National Park (in Southern Tanzania) was an eye opener I am certain not to
forget in a very long time.
I knew the park was bound to be spectacular, I had heard endless
descriptions of teeming wildlife but I didn't expect Ruaha to steal
my heart. In the coffee table photographs I had seen, it didn't strike me
as wild as the Selous. How wrong can one be. In hindsight I'm almost
too embarrassed to admit to it!
Friends of Ruaha (FORS) volunteer
pilot & aircraft engineer, Tim Harrison, had been offered a complimentary
safari in February of this year (including staying at the Fox's superb tented
lodge) Ruaha River Lodge - in reward for his efforts in repairing FORS Jabiru
spotter plane. I was the lucky one he asked to join him for the adventure.
The road leading from Iringa town
to the park had been graded and was the best road I have travelled along
(in Africa) for a very long time and the same can be said for the tracks
in the park. Rangers at the entrance were friendly and went out of
their way to brief us, and answer all our questions. We were on a mission!
With map in hand we intended to spend every daylight hour exploring,
discovering as much as we could during our 3 day safari.
In short, we met up with a nomadic
lion (approx 5 yrs old) who had recently brought down a baby giraffe, who
sat vigil over his dinner, a batchelor group of elephants in a water fight
in the Ruaha River, huge herds of elephants (including a tiny new born, hiding
below his mummy's belly), countless birdlife that kept us guessing and
identifying them for hours - endless deserted tracks with game around every
corner - and last but not least, a beautiful young leopard (in the depth
of the forest) who greeted us just as the sun was going down. It is
impossible to mention even a quarter of what we saw, be it wildlife or the
endless, diverse terrain - including the great Ruaha River stretching it's
fingers across the park, a lifeline to wildlife for nearly 13,000
sq.kilometers.
Meeting the Chairperson of FORS
, Sue Stolberger, was an added delight. Her home on the banks of the
Ruaha River, where she paints and manages the society dedicated to helping
the park and educational programs aimed at the local community. You can learn
more about their efforts (far too numerous to mention here) on their web
site:
http://www.friendsofruaha.org
Ruaha National Park, like most
of the parks and reserves in Southern Tanzania remains relatively ignored
by the tourist crowd, but this is bound to change as word gets out just how
spectacular this virgin part of Tanzania really is. There's space to
accommodate the increase of visitors, and to a large extent it will play
a major role in these parks maintenance - but in a selfish way I hope that
not too many people read this
article!
My thanks to Tim (for the
invite), Sue Stolberger and the rest of the FORS crew, Peter & Sarah
Fox at Ruaha River Lodge, the enthusiastic rangers, and last but not least
Ruaha herself (especially the 'not so timid' leopard). I'll be back!
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